Is Dorset worth visiting? How we spent one week in southwest England

Dorset is a County in southwestern England, stretching from Bournemouth in the east down west to Somerset County in the west, encompassing the Jurassic Coast and several prominent landmarks, such as Durdle Door and Lulworth Cove. There are a few sandy beaches along this coast at Poole and Weymouth, two larger towns.

Read on to find the perfect holiday plan for your Dorset adventure, including our top recommendations for small coastal villages that let you experience the Jurassic Coast like a local.
Dorset South Coast off Lyme Regis, England.

Is Dorset worth visiting?

Yes. This county along the southwest coast exemplifies with what one associates old England with; the old castles, little ancient villages and small farms with fields lined with old stone walls.

The bigger cities such as Poole, Weymouth and Bournemouth have been dragged into the 21st century. The Dorset countryside and little villages have not yet been totally changed by modernisation and the pressures of tourism. The locals might disagree with this statement by the way.

People live in this street, The Tanyard.
People live in this street, The Tanyard.

So much of Dorset is really beautiful with ancient buildings and roads that seem to enhance the scenic countryside. Worth mentioning that those that prefer the bright lights and evening entertainment will not find too much of this in most of Dorset. However, the pub culture and little stone pubs are so worth visiting in every little village. It is hard not to end up in at least one pub each day while exploring around Dorset.

Dorset: Hotel

Where to stay in Dorset is an interesting question.

Do you stay in one of the bigger towns such as Poole with its large natural harbour and sandy beaches

Or Weymouth with its quaint harbour, and close access to the Jurassic coast?

Depending on what you prefer – either of these two towns would have good possibilities

A typical English countryside hotel and pub.
A typical English countryside hotel and pub.

You can drive from one side of Dorset to the other in under ninety minutes on a quiet day, so you could pretty much select anywhere across Dorset to stay.

Weymouth and Dorchester are good centrally located towns, with Weymouth having the advantage of being on the coast. For a classic 19th century hotel right on the Esplanade, the three-star Royal Hotel in Weymouth might be a good choice, or the more expensive five-star 18th century Gloucester House might be better. There are many other hotels and B&B’s along the front of the town for selection,

Pub in the village of Burton Bradstock.
Pub in the village of Burton Bradstock.

In the past, we have chosen to stay in a small pub hotel in the little market town of Bridport. Bridport is close to the Jurassic coast and also is close to several small harbour towns along the west coast of Dorset. All are worth visiting.

West Bay, originally called Bridport Harbour, is within walking (two kilometres) distance of the Bridport town centre. The West Bay sandstone cliffs feature prominently in the TV series Broadchurch.

The Greyhound Pub and Hotel is pretty much in the dead centre of the market town, so is very convenient. The breakfast each morning has ensured a repeat visit or two. There are several hotels in both Bridport and West Bay. We have eaten at both the Bridport Arms and the George in West Bay, excellent food in both. We have heard only good reviews, but have not actually stayed at either yet.

Dorset: Airport

The closest international airports to central Dorset are both London Heathrow (LHR) and London Gatwick (LGW). The drive from either airport is about two and half hours. The quickest route to Dorset is on the M3 and the A31.

If you have time, and you have not visited Stonehenge, I recommend a slight deviation off the M3, onto the A303 to Stonehenge.

Stonehenge England
Stonehenge England

After that, drop down to Salisbury on the A360 and A36, before joining the A354 to central Dorset. Well worth noting we are only talking about a drive of just over two hundred or so kilometres.

What we did in Dorset

Getting around Dorset

Getting around Dorset cannot realistically be done with public transport. There are a couple of main train lines down to the main cities and towns such as Poole, Weymouth and Dorchester.

However, taking the train from the airports, will actually take over four hours to get to Dorchester from Heathrow.

This is also with changing trains at least once for example. Getting around to the smaller coastal villages is even more difficult and slow. If you do want to explore Dorset, I would recommend hiring a car from either airport.

West Bay Harbour.
West Bay Harbour.

Places to visit in Dorset

There is a vast selection of villages and places to visit in Dorset.

Castles, ancient sites, brewery’s and mansions, to coastal towns, ports, and famous landmarks.

There are simply too many to cover on one or even two holidays, so selecting which to go each day to will be fun.

Corfe Castle Dorset
Corfe Castle Dorset

A great website to bookmark for this breakfast review each morning is the “Visit Dorset” website. This breaks all the interesting places to visit out into into family friendly, historical, heritage and culture, walking, parks and gardens, coast and beaches handy sections, so easier to choose what to do each day, depending on the weather or how you feel.

It’s worth noting that unlike some countries like Australia, villages and towns are often only five to ten kilometres apart. Driving to pretty much anywhere Dorset will only take up to an hour or so. The coast west of Bridport and West Bay is populated by a number of small villages, Chideock, Seatown, Charmouth, and Lyme Regis. These are all worth visiting. Immediately east, you have villages such as Burton Bradstock, Shipton Gorge, and Abbotsbury, all on the Jurassic coast

Further west from Abbotsbury you have the Chesil beach, a thirty-kilometre long shingle beach, (impressively strange looking with fist size rocks instead of sand), all the way to the Isle of Portland and Weymouth.

Just past Weymouth you have the perfectly formed Lulworth Cove, and the limestone rock arch over the sea called Durdle Door.

Charmouth Harbour Dorset
Charmouth Harbour Dorset

You also have Lulworth Castle close by. You can drive further along to Kimmeridge Bay and Chapmans Pool, and all the way along the coast to Peveril Point and Swanage, before going back up to Corfe Castle and then onwards to the huge natural harbour of Poole.

Best time to visit Dorset

Dorset does receive its fair number of tourists, and the difference in the number of people visiting in summer as to winter is significant. Prices of hotels also vary quite significantly during the peak seasons.

Best Season: May,June to September

During this period, from mid Spring through to the first month of Autumn, where temperatures average 15 to 20 degrees during Spring and early Autumn, and can reach 25 degrees in summer, the days are long and are generally clearer and brighter.

Wet Season: October to March.

Cold weather, high risk of rain and cloud and can also be windy on the coast. Temperatures average around 8 to 12 degrees, with opportunistically called ‘good times for bracing walks’. The days are also much shorter with it getting quite dark from 4pm onwards.

I have visited Dorset during both summer and winter. Summer is much better!

During winter the focus has to on locations with gorgeous ancient pubs with large fireplaces. An emphasis on visiting places where the weather has less impact is important.

In summer, the coast is beautiful. Locations along the coast like Weymouth or the smaller coastal villages are perfect. The longer days also give you more opportunity to visit more places.

Durdle Dor Limestone Arch over the sea.
Durdle Dor Limestone Arch over the sea.

Practical Tips before booking Dorset

Where to stay in Dorset?

The smaller coastal villages, such as Bridport, West Bay, Charmouth or Lyme Regis gives one the best experience of the more typical old English villages.

These still allow you all the advantages of being able to visit the many locations all across Dorset. The slightly more central town of Dorchester is only 23 kilometres away from Bridport market town for example but is a larger town with less appeal. The larger coastal towns of Weymouth, only ten kilometres away from Dorchester, and Poole (40 kilometres) both have beautiful harbours, so have more appeal. These are more modern towns.

How long should you stay in Dorset?

Four or five full days does give you the chance to sample a number of scenic and historical locations, and visit a few of the villages along the coast.

Should you take the tours in Dorset?

There are a few tours to Dorset from London. If you have a car and are staying in Dorset, there is no requirement to take any tours. One exception is the fishing and boat tours.

Do you need a Dorset street map?

Yes, you do! It is worth while making sure you have access to either online maps or offline GPS maps. The larger main roads are well signed and easily to navigate, but the smaller roads winding around the countryside can be confusing.

Final Review of Dorset

Dorset, and its small villages is an interesting and pleasing county to visit,

It is popular with both English and foreign visitors. A significant number of tourists visit the larger towns including Bournemouth, Poole and Weymouth, and even the smaller local spots like Lulworth Cove and Durdle Door can attract half a million tourists each year.

Given the large numbers, peak season can be busy in the larger towns, which is why sometimes staying in the smaller coastal villages along the Jurassic Coast can be beneficial, as you can easily walk around the villages.

The Platform Restaurant train coach.
The Platform Restaurant train coach.

The Platform Restaurant in West Bay offers an unusual and unique environment, set in a historic railway carriage, with superb food.

Is it safe in Dorset?

Dorset is part of England, and England in general, suffers from a fair amount of petty crime such as pick pocketing. However, a significant proportion of that is really based in the big cities, and not in the countryside of Dorset. Dorset is far safer than London for example and ranks in the top ten of English counties for lowest crime rates.

Dorset: Costs

Hotels:

We stayed at the Greyhound Pub in the centre of Bridport which is a very convenient location for western Dorset, but the small pubs and hotels down on the West Bay harbour would also be as convenient while giving you walking access to the beach and harbour, (albeit shingle beach!). The room costs, in general, are much cheaper than London, up to 50% lower.

Eating Out:

Pub and restaurant meals in general are pretty good value and tasty. You can find more expensive restaurants where the food is simply superb, but even those are no more expensive than high end restaurants in Australian capital cities. I do recommend the Platform Restaurant in West Bay for an unusual and unique environment, set in a historic railway carriage, with superb food.

Excursions:

The only excursions we looked at were sunset cruises in Weymouth Harbour, and to our surprise, for a family of four, it was about a third cheaper than a similar sunset cruise on Queensland waterways.

Transportation:

Public transport around Dorset is slow and infrequent, not really that good for tourists with limited time.

Value For Money:

Dorset is definitely cheaper than London. There is so much to see and explore in Dorset, it is well worth the time spent. The week in Dorset cost less than the week in London, even including the cost of a rental car for the week.

Dorset: Review

Ease of Getting Around:

Dorset is a popular destination for tourists, so the during peak times, parking in the small seaside villages can be a bit of a problem. If you are staying in one of those little seaside towns, its not a problem as you can walk everywhere. To explore Dorset, I would recommend that you rent a car, as getting around all the little villages is not easy or in some cases almost impossible with public transport.

Atmosphere and Vibe:

The ancient villages, churches and castles all combine to give one the sense of old England. Apart from the pubs, most of the countryside is pretty quiet and dark at night. The larger towns are a little livelier along the beach fronts, mostly with tourists.

Food and Culture:

Pub food is for me one of the attractions of Dorset. The historic pubs around Dorset are often located in gorgeous locations, and are generally warm and welcoming, especially in winter with a nice fire!

Friendliness and Local Hospitality:

Dorset is a friendly and welcoming destination, even during the peak times, when I have seen their patience somewhat stretched. Dorset is known for its relaxed pace, local hospitality, I so love the pubs, and the overall quaint village charm.

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